Wednesday, May 31, 2023

South of Biarritz

We drove south from Biarritz, to Hendaye, across the Bidasoa River from Spain, where we saw boats in the marina with the Pyrenees behind, and we walked along the beachfront.  Hendaye was rather quiet this morning, with surf lessons in progress. 

We drove a bit north along the Basque Corniche to Fort de Socoa, built from 1627 to protect Socoa and the Bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz.  Today it is an active sailing center.  

We drove around the bay, through Ciboure, to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, an historic fishing town with 12,000 residents, at the mouth of the Nivelle River.  We found our hotel, Les Almadies, then took a walk around town.  King Louis XIV married Marie-Therese of Spain in 1660 in Saint-Jean-Baptist Church, with a beautiful gilded baroque altarpiece and three stories of wooden galleries.  The King and future Queen stayed in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, for a few months before their wedding, and the houses they lived in are well preserved and used today.  

Saint-Jean-de-Luz suffered from weather and wave action over the years, and n the mid-19th century, Napoleon III authorized construction of new sea defenses, with large sea walls that took 30 years to build.  They continue to be maintained and added to every year.  As a result, the houses along the waterfront are set behind the sea wall and have bridges to the second floor.  The beach forms most of a semicircle, and is wide, with relatively came water.


We picked up some lunch in the market hall, and we walked up and down the beautiful streets.