Tuesday, November 12, 2019

Four Castles in a Day

We left Pousada Convento Arraiolos this morning after breakfast, after one last visit to the chapel.  We took our time driving to Vila Vicosa by mid afternoon, stopping at castles along the way.  The sky was clear and the drive through olives and cork oaks was lazy with little traffic.  The Alentejo  countryside is rolling and pretty, cresting in small hills with beautiful views.

The first castle we visited was at Evoramonte.  The castle walls were initiated in 1160 and enlarged in later centuries.  The castle was used as a hunting lodge, started in 1306 by King Dinis.  The 1531 Lisbon earthquake destroyed the keep tower of the castle, and the whole structure was then rebuilt by the Duke of Bragança, in Manueline style, known for its sculpted ropes and ties.  The interior of the three story castle is dominated by large columns, sculpted differently on each floor.  We went up and down the circular stone stairs, and walked along the top of the castle walls.  The site is commanding with views in every direction.
The next castle stop was in Redondo, where castle construction began in the mid 1200’s and reconstruction in the 1300’s, for military purposes.  The castle keep remains, along with the castle walls.  Igreja Matriz de Redondo sits at the corner of the castle walls.  Built in the 1600’s, it has a rich interior, with stories of Christ in blue azulejos. 
Just a few kilometers away, we saw the Castle of Alandroal, started in 1294 as a military castle.  It suffered interior ruin over the years and inside the walls was cleaned, with new stone courtyard installed in just the last 10 years.  A church remains inside the castle walls, and the town all around is thriving.  As we drove into town, we noticed lots of people parking and walking up a street.  After exploring the castle, we walked back to the street and followed the crowd, into a local restaurant serving buffet style lunch.  We sat at a long table with the locals and lunch was delicious!
We arrived at Castelo Vila Viçosa by mid-afternoon and realized right away that we had been here before and walked around the outside of the castle.  This time we went inside to the Archaeology Museum and the Hunting Museum.  The Castelo was built in the 13th century atop Roman ruins.  We saw Roman mosaic floors and Roman bricked arches underground.  The Castelo was the home of the Bragança family before construction of the Ducal Palace.  The Archaeology Museum covered area finds from Paleolithic to Roman times.  The Hunting Museum exhibited mounted animals hunted by the last Bragança prior to Portugal’s change from a monarchy to a democracy.  The interior of the Castelo was impressive.