Saturday, September 30, 2023

Home in Lectoure

We landed at the Toulouse airport after our flight back to France from Marrakech. Just as we exited customs, we saw friends from Lectoure waiting for their son and had a quick visit. We drove home, arriving in the dark, close to 8:30 pm. This was our view when we got up the next morning. With cooler temperatures, the Pyrenees are more visible more of the time. Hot air balloons are a bonus on the landscape. We are happy to be home!



Friday, September 29, 2023

Walking in Marrakech

On our last full day of this trip to Marrakech, we walked to places in the Medina that we had not visited. We saw more earthquake damage. We visited a leather shop overlooking the tannery. We saw mothers walking with their daughters, and so many people greeting us and welcoming us. We visited the Photography Musée with photos exhibited from the late 1800’s to 1950. It was interesting to see the changes in clothing, with most men now wearing western attire, and most women wearing djellabas and hijabs. We had a delicious lunch at Nomad in the souks. Visiting Marrakech a second time after 16 years has been a fascinating experience. We have felt safe and welcome. When visiting places so unlike our daily life, we are reminded of our humanity. We are all created equal, just living in very different circumstances.






Wednesday, September 27, 2023

Ait Benhaddou

A driver picked us up at 8 this morning, from our Riad in Marrakech, and drove four hours east, through the High Atlas Mountains, to Ait Benhaddou.  Ait Benhaddou is an historic fortified village along the caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech. It is considered a great example of Moroccan earthen clay architecture and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. The site of the village has been fortified since the 11th century. Most of the current structures date to the 17th century. They sustained some damage from the earthquake of September 2023. We ate lunch in the ancient village and explored a couple of hours.

The drive through the Atlas Mountains reminded us of northern Arizona with painted desert hills, big dry rocky mountains, and vegetation much the same, with pine trees, juniper, live oak, and palo verde trees. The mountains were punctuated by small mud constructed villages. It was really interesting for us.


Tuesday, September 26, 2023

Shopping and Lunch in Marrakech

We went shopping just after breakfast this morning, at Ensemble Artisanal, where items are marked with a price - no negotiating. We bought a few things then crossed the street to Cyber Jardin, a large public garden. We walked down the street to Koutoubia Mosque and gardens. There is some earthquake damage at the mosque, so it is fenced off from visitors and repairs are being made. We walked through the souk toTerrasses des Arts for lunch on the rooftop. Lunch was delicious - Michelin worthy! We had a siesta in the afternoon, then walked to Jemaa el-Fnaa, just before sunset. Jemaa el-Fnaa is the gathering spot, landmark square of Marrakech, where food stalls, juice bars, performers, and thousands of locals and tourists gather every evening for a big party. 



Monday, September 25, 2023

Essaouira

We took the 9 a.m. bus from Marrakech to Essouira this morning. It was a three hour trip with one short stop. Essaouira is a port city and considered one of the best anchorages of the Moroccan coast since ancient times. A trading post was established in the 5th century BC. In 1506, the king of Portugal ordered a fortress to be built there. The fortress fell to local resistance in 1510, and continued to grow and prosper. In the mid 18th century, King Mohammed III ordered the fortress and the city to be rebuilt. By the 19th century, Essaouira was the most important port in Morocco and became the harbor of Marrakech. Essaouira has a natural bay with beautiful beaches extending north and south. It has a temperate climate year round. 


We had a wonderful day in Essaouira, shopping the local markets, walking along the rempart walls, exploring the port, full of fishermen and their boats, and having a delicious lunch at a restaurant recommended by friends. 


Sunday, September 24, 2023

Madersa, Musée, and Souk

We visited Madersa Ben Youssef, built in the 14th century as a school for Islamic studies. It was also a mosque and a library. The madrasa was restored in the 19th century. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The interior ornamentation of the madrasa is stunning, with layers of mosaic tile work, carved stucco and wood.

Just a block away, we visited the Musée de Marrakech, housed in a former private Palace constructed in the early 20th century. It was renovated and converted to a museum in 1997. It is decorated in colorful tile work and carved and painted stucco and wood.   


We walked through the souks, had a light lunch on the rooftop of Cafe des Spices, and peeped in other riads and former palaces along the way. We had a good day!