We drove through miles of vineyards, through Cognac country, and stayed overnight in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne last evening. We arrived by 6 pm, checked in to our B&B, run by Greta from South Africa. She was charming and helpful. We walked around the village and had dinner at a local restaurant, at the edge of the village place. Aubeterre-sur-Dronne has a population of about 400 people. It is a Plus Beaux Village, considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. It sits high on a hill, with the Dronne River below. We arrived at the Church of Saint-Jean, just as it was closing. It is a monolithic church, carved in the 12th century into the cliff, over 20 meters high, making it one of the largest underground churches in Europe. We visited the Saint-Jacques church, also built in the 12th century, with exquisite carvings on the front facade.