Monday, June 2, 2025

Citadelle de Blaye, Plus Beaux Village of Talmont, and Troglodytes of Meschers

We left Lectoure on Monday morning under rainy skies.  We took the péage and drove about two and a half hours north, to Blaye.  Blaye is just north of Bordeaux, and known for its Citadelle on the Gironde Estuary, built between 1686 and 1689, to protect Bordeaux from sea invasion.  The Citadelle was designed  by the famous French military architect Vauban, during the reign of Louise XIV, and is a listed UNESCO site.  It is impressive!  

We continued north along the Gironde Estuary, to the village of Talmont-Sur-Girond, a Plus Beaux Village with a population of about 100.  We had fresh fish planchers for lunch and walked around the village to see the Eglise of Saint Radegonde, built in 1094.  The church sits just inside the village walls on the cliffs of the Gironde.  Local fishermen use fishing cabins built along the cliffs.  Talmont is charming!

We drove just 15 minutes further north to Meschers-sur-Gironde, and walked along the cliffs to see the troglodytes.  Originally natural shallow caves, they were enlarged over centuries and used by fishermen, as hideouts, and small homes.  Another stunning spot!

We arrived in Saintes at 4, and checked into Abbaye Aux Dames, a Benedictine Abbaye built in 1047.  It is today considered the cultural center of Saintes, and particularly music.  As I walked around the grounds, I heard beautiful classical piano music wafting from a third floor window.  I thought it was a recording, until I heard the instructor stop the student.  The Abbaye is a beautiful, large facility that also has 33 hotel rooms.  We’re staying two nights.