Jim Thompson House Museum

Upon our return to Bangkok from Ayutthuya this afternoon, we asked the taxi driver to take us to the Jim Thompson House Museum.  We ate lunch there in one of the cafes before taking our tour of the house.  The cafe was modern and the food delicious!  

“Jim Thompson became one of the most famous Americans living in Asia.  Time magazine claimed “he almost single-handedly saved Thailand’s vital silk industry from extinction.”  Jim Thompson was born into a family of means.  His father was a wealthy textile manufacturer in Delaware.  Jim graduated from Princeton in 1928.  He represented the US at the 1928 Olympics, competing in sailing.  He  practiced architecture with a New York firm.  In 1941, he quit his job and joined the US Marines, and then the OSS, forerunner of the CIA.  After the war, he became a silk merchant and antique collector.  The pinnacle of his architectural achievement was the construction of his new home in Bangkok, assembled from several old country houses he collected, and then building six Thai dwellings on his property.”

During the same time, 1950’s and 60’s, Jim Thompson focused on hand-woven Thai silk.  He rounded up 200 hand weavers and supplied them with raw silk and dyes to turn out finished products on their crude home looms in their homes.  The silks became popular and the business expanded quickly.  Thompson disappeared in 1967, while on a trip with friends in Malaysia.  He was never found.  His company, a Thai enterprise, survives today.”  

 

Ayutthaya

We took a taxi 1.5 hours north of Bangkok to the historic city of Ayutthaya, this morning.  “Ayutthaya was founded in 1350.  It was the second capital of the Siamese Kingdom.  It flourished from the 14th to the 18th centuries, during which time it grew to be one of the world’s largest and most cosmopolitan urban areas and a center of global diplomacy and commerce.  Ayutthaya was attached and razed by the Burmese army in 1767, who burned the city to the ground and forced the inhabitants to abandon the city.  The city was never rebuilt on the same site and remains today are an extensive archaeological site.  It was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, recognized for its exceptional temple ruins and artistic heritage.”  We explored Ayutthaya more than two hours today, in a tuk tuk.  We also visited several modern Buddhist temples in Ayutthaya.

Bangkok

We arrived in Bangkok late yesterday afternoon, on a flight from Siem Reap.  We taxied from the airport, found our hotel, settled in for a bit, then went on a walk.  Our hotel is a long block from the Grand Palace and several well known Buddhist Temples that are on a river that runs through Bangkok.  There are ferries passing constantly.  We walked for an hour, checking things out, then stopped at a local restaurant for dinner.  A nice couple at the adjacent table helped us order.  Dinner was good!

Bangkok is the capital city of Thailand and is home to close to 18 million people in the metropolitan area.  It is a modern city in many ways, with hundreds of skyscrapers, yet there is plenty of Old Bangkok still visible.  There is construction everywhere with cranes dotting the city, building more tall buildings.  It is such a large city, it is hard to wrap my arms around.   

Impressions of Siem Reap, Cambodia

Our limited time in Siem Reap, three nights, and two full days, has yielded a wonderful impression.  Our hotel was an oasis in Siem Reap, where we were greeted every time by name with smiles, cool cloths, and fresh cold water.  Breakfasts were extraordinary, with fresh fruits and vegetables, and local dishes served.  Our room was large, clean, and with every amenity, including fresh fruit basket and nightly pastry delivered.  

Our taxi driver turned tuk tuk driver was terrific!  We spent two whole days with him, as he drove us from temple to temple, and plying us with fresh cold wipes and water after each temple exploration.  He was chatty and showed us photos of his son’s recent wedding.  His son graduated from university, lives in Phnom Phen, met his wife at university, and works in IT.  He also told us of life in Cambodia - the schools, roads, businesses, and much more.  

Lunches out were well prepared, colorful with fruits and vegetables, and service was generous and attentive.  Everyone spoke English (required in school), so it was easy to converse.  

It is obvious by riding along the roads that life isn’t easy and prosperous for all Cambodians.  Average income is about $1750 per year/$5 per day.  Yet, people are smiling, growing fruits and vegetables in their gardens, and staying busy.  Likely, people in a highly touristed area, such as Siem Reap are more fortunate than those in more remote areas.  

The temples of Angkor Wat were extraordinary!  They have earned their UNESCO World Heritage designation.  As the world’s largest religious monument, it is considered by many as an 8th wonder of the world because of its architectural grandeur.  Angkor Wat is unforgettable!  We are grateful for our visit!  

More Temples

Our driver picked us up at our hotel again, at 8:30, and we drove north about one hour to visit Banteay Srei, “a 10th century temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, renowned for its exceptionally intricate, well preserved red sandstone carvings and miniature, delicate design.  It is often called the Citadel of Women or the jewel of Khmer art.”  The smallest temple complex we visited, the intricate designs were exquisite.

We drove back south to the Angkor Wat Archaeological Park, to visit Banteay Samre, another small temple site, finely carved, from the 12th century. 

Nearby, we explored Pre Rup Temple, built in the late 10th century of brick construction, it was used for funerals.  Its center temple is tall and steep to climb.  

Our driver insisted we take a break from temples and walk across a long bridge to Neak Péan Temple, located on an island in a lake filled with water lilies.  Of course, there was a small temple in the middle of the island, built in the 12th century.  The pools around the temple were built for bathing to cure disease.  Each of the four pools are said to represent wind, fire, water, and earth.  

Our last temple visit was at Preah Khan, a 12th century Buddhist temple built by King Jayavarman VII to honor his father after the victory over invading Cham armies in 1191.  The temple is one of the largest created in the Khmer empire.  It fell into disrepair and the broken and fallen stones are quite a jumble.

We had a late lunch in Amok Restaurant in Siem Reap.  We ate local Khmer dishes that were delicious, and beautifully served.  We took a walk after lunch, through the old downtown area, had a cup of local ice cream, and took a tuk tuk back to our hotel.  We had a great day!